Workshop line +61 2 4961 8527
speedtuningshop@gmail.com
Mon–Fri 8:00–17:30 · Sat 9:00–14:00
Service 06 — Stopping

Brakes that keep up
with the engine.

Pads, rotors, lines and fluid for street cars; full big-brake kits for track work. The cheapest insurance a fast car can carry — and the first thing that should go on a car that's had power added.

Same day Fade-free stops 12-month warranty
The job, properly

Fast is easy. Stopping is engineering.

Add 30% more power and the car gets to the next corner 30% faster — on brakes designed for the old speed. That's the maths nobody thinks about until the pedal goes long halfway down a hill.

Street cars get the sensible package: performance pads, decent rotors, braided lines and high-temp fluid. That's most of what a big-brake kit gives you in real use, at a third of the price.

Track cars get the honest version: proper pads and fluid first, because nine times out of ten that's what was actually fading. If you genuinely need a big-brake kit after that, we'll fit one — but we'll talk you into it with lap data, not marketing.

600+
Brake jobs done
Same
Day turnaround
RBF
Track fluid stocked
12 mo
Workmanship warranty
Performance brake pads and slotted rotors ready for fitting on the workbench
What it costs

Pricing

AUD, GST included. Fixed quote before the car comes in — the number doesn't move after.

JobIncludesFrom
Street packagePerformance pads, rotors, braided lines, fluid — the 90% solution$950
Track packageRace pads, track fluid, lines — survives a Lakeside session$1,350
Big-brake kitLarger calipers + rotors, quoted per car — for when pads aren't enough$3,800
Pads + rotors onlyThe core upgrade — fitted, bedded, ready same day$620
Fluid flush (track fluid)High-temp fluid through the whole system — yearly for track cars$180
Braided lines (set of 4)Firmer pedal, consistent feel — pairs with any pad upgrade$420

Pad compound changes everything — street pads squeal less, track pads bite harder cold-ish but eat rotors. Tell us how you drive and we'll spec it once, correctly.

Step by step

In and out the same day

Most brake jobs are a morning's work. Here's the run sheet.

Ask about yours
Step 01
Inspect

Pad life, rotor thickness and condition, line age, fluid state. Sometimes a car needs a service, not an upgrade — we'll say so.

Step 02
Spec check

Right compound for your use — daily driver, tow rig or track car get different pads. This choice matters more than rotor size.

Step 03
Fit

Pads, rotors, lines — everything cleaned, greased where it should be and torqued to spec. Pistons and sliders get checked, not skipped.

Step 04
Flush & bleed

Fresh fluid through the whole system — old fluid is the cheapest fade there is, and it costs $180 to not have.

Step 05
Bed-in & test

Proper bed-in procedure on the road — the step that decides whether the pads work or glaze. Then a final pedal check and you're out.

Recent jobs

Stopping gear

Not glamorous. Just the part that decides whether the fast bits were a good idea.

Big-brake kit with multi-piston calipers behind a forged wheel
Track 86 · BBK

Genuine need — the car was cracking consistent fast laps on cooked stock calipers.

Braided brake line being fitted with fresh track fluid
Lines + fluid

The $600 fix for the spongy pedal — before and after you can feel at the lights.

Slotted rotors and performance pads freshly fitted on a Golf GTI
Golf GTI · street pack

Pads, rotors, fluid after the Stage 1 tune — stops like it goes now.

Ang torquing a brake caliper bracket during a track package fit
Who does the work

Ang brakes late.
He'll sort yours too.

Our chassis bloke does the brake side as well — same person who sets your alignment specs your pads, because on a track car they belong to the same conversation.

His rule: pads and fluid before hardware. If a customer wants a big-brake kit for the look, he'll fit it happily — after a two-minute chat about whether the car actually needs it.

Small crew, same hands every job More about the shop
Questions

Brake questions

Something else on your mind? Ring +61 2 4961 8527 — quickest answer is still the phone.

Usually fluid — it's boiled and the pedal goes long. Sometimes it's pad fade, where the pedal stays firm but the car doesn't slow. Track fluid + decent pads fix both for about a grand, and that's the job nine times out of ten.

Slotted for real use — they clear pad gas and resist cracking. Drilled looks good in photos and cracks at the holes under real heat. We'll fit drilled if you insist, but we'll say our piece first.

Performance compounds are noisier than stock — that's the trade. Proper bedding and shims keep it to an occasional chirp. Constant squeal usually means glazed pads from a skipped bed-in.

Almost never. Good pads, rotors, lines and fluid out-stop a cheap big-brake kit in real use. BBKs earn their money on track cars doing repeat heavy stops — we'll tell you which side of that line you're on.

Once a year minimum for a track car, before a big event if it's been a while. Fluid absorbs moisture and its boiling point drops — the first symptom is the pedal going long at the worst possible corner.
Compare

All six, side by side

Not sure which job your car actually needs? This table's the honest shortcut.

ServiceBest forTimeFrom
ECU RemappingCheapest power per dollar — most turbo cars1 day$890
Dyno TuningDiagnosing, proving, dialling in existing mods2–4 hrs$330
Performance ExhaustsSound + flow, pairs well with Stage 21–2 days$1,450
Turbo & SuperchargerBig numbers — 40–80% gains3–7 days$4,900
Suspension & HandlingPutting the power down, corner speed1–2 days$1,200
Brake Upgrades this pageStopping the extra speed, track workSame day$950
Book it in

Go fast.
Stop faster.

Ring +61 2 4961 8527 or send the form on the contacts page — tell us the car, we come back with a fixed quote and the next free slot.